Upfront with the Artisan

#1
Earlier this year I had paid a visit to Taha in KL and met up with Ensar during the Singapore Oud Fest. It was a great learning experience for me to be able to talk directly to the distillers and learnt about their philosophy in the art of distillation. I had posted my experience in the BN and decided to repost it here again to share with those who are interested.

I had met up with Ensar for another 2 more times after the Fest. It was always refreshing and enriching to have a no-holds-barred chat and listen to his candid answers to my never ending questions.

Taha was my mentor as I learned the art of wood listening from him during the visit. I had learned to better appreciate and differentiate the fine nuances of the scent notes be it a swipe of oil on the wrist or the gentle heating of the wood on the burner. I am looking forward to another visit to him not only for agarwood this time, but gourmet coffee appreciation as well!

Do note some of the content may be outdated but nonetheless hope you enjoy reading it!
 
#2
Artisan: Taha
Date: 05 Mar 2016

Great day for me and want to say a big thank you to Taha for being a patient teacher and a gracious host. We had covered many discussions like the differences between different distillation methods, dissection of the oil scent profile, effect of oil aging and etc.

It was definitely an eye opener for me when we went through woods from different regions such as Malaysia, Vietnam, Laos, India, in a monkoh/Arabian hybrid session. It was very Ouducational for me when we heated woods from different parts of a tree such as the trunk, roots, joints, xylem to understand and appreciate the different scents. The challenging part for me was to then conjure a mental profile of the summation of the different scents and try to compared it against an oil distilled from it. In addition I had tried some of the unreleased oils and all I can say is do keep a lookout for the upcoming Terengganu and Koh Kong oils, great stuffs!

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The highlight for me was the heating of Kyara. Nothing much for me to add on what everyone already knows by now the beautiful Kyara aroma. Now the interesting part was the heating of a Brunei agarwood which left Taha baffled. There are general 2 schools of thought regarding the origin of Kyara and Taha's personal belief was that Kyara should only be from Vietnam. Now after comparing the scent profiles between a green oil Kyara and the Brunei agarwood, even for someone as green as me, I was able to detect very similar notes between both. There was an apparent Kyara DNA common to both. Next came the taste test and not only the Brunei agarwood tasted very similar to the green oil Kyara, the intensity was a lot stronger and I could feel the bittersweetness literally overwhelm my numb taste bud. One can only imagine the quality of the oil that is distilled from the material...

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I was fortunate enough to witness an actual distillation taking place at Taha's place. He was doing a series of distillation using the same raw materials but with different parameters. Interestingly and unsurprisingly, the scent profiles and colors were quite different. Most of us are aware on how distillation tweaking can affected the distilled oil but nothing beats first hand experience of smelling the actual oils distilled from the different methodology. Besides, not many can claim to have taken part in a distillation, which i had, albeit just a water boy to ferry the ice! Taha for that bit of ferrying hard work, you can pay for my labor cost by giving me a small sample of that distilled oil? :p

Oh by the way, I had the rare opportunity to drink the hydrosol directly from the distillation itself and that was some powerful stuff! One small cup and five minutes later, you can feel energy coursing throughout your body!

For me I am very bad at describing the scent profile of an oil, not in a poetic sense but rather the isolation and identification of the different notes. I am amazed at how certain people can easily dissect and associate notes to daily common things like certain flowery fragrance, licorice sweetness and leathery book smell.

Taha is definitely one of those talented people. We were going though one of his Cambodi oils and he was trying to describe to me a certain type of dry fruity sweetness. When he saw my puzzled face, he went straight away to his kitchen and start ransacking to find suitable comparable food ingredients. Another great challenge for me when I had to create a mental scent profile after eating a dried prune and fig and smelling a tobacco stick, to compare against the oil on my wrist. But wow, that combination was spot on and instantly I was able to understand what Taha was trying to convey to me earlier on.

This exercise made me realize having just a high quality Oud oil is just half of the picture. To enjoy an oil in its totality, one has to have a rich recollection of scents and smells so as to be able to identify and associate all the fine nuances that a high quality Oud offer.

The visit would not be completed if we had not touch on sandalwood. If you recalled earlier on, Taha had planned to distill a batch of quality sandalwood wood later part of the year. I had the first hand chance to smell the heated wood and boy I was blown away by the rich buttery sandalwood aroma! In comparison, Taha had heated another sandalwood from a Japanese house (sorry the name slipped my mind) and though it was good, it was nowhere near the standard of the first one. Taha was kind enough to offer me a generous portion of the wood and I am very grateful for that. Now I am really looking forward eagerly to that sandalwood distillation!

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Overall a very fruitful trip for me and not often you get a chance to interact directly with the distiller himself. Really hoping to drop by again in the near future, perhaps this time to Taha's warehouse itself in Pahang to see all the wood in person.
 
#4
Artisans: Ensar and Thomas
Date: Singapore Oudfest (25 Jun 16)

Oudfest was held in Singapore this time and I was quite fortunate to meet up with Ensar and Thomas for a short but fruitful discussion, not to mention the opportunity to try out many of the unreleased oils.

The moment I entered the room, I was greeted by rows and rows of bottles of oils on the table. Although I was eagerly waiting to try them out, the first item on the agenda was surprising sandalwood! I had brought along Taha's Byakudan upon Ensar's request as he was quite keen to try it out. By his own admission, he is a very harsh critic when it comes to aromatics perfumery. But even so, his verdict for the oil was positive and good though the projection was a bit soft for him.

Of course being a hardcore sandalwood fan himself, it is no surprise he had conducted several artisanal sandalwood distillations, from as early as 2002 to the latest 2014 and perhaps one of his proudest creation, Santal Royale. I was lucky to have a sniff at it and it was quite unlike to any of those I had in my collection so far. Rather than calling it an oil, perhaps describing it as a santal perfume might be a better choice of word.

It's top notes were complex and multi-facet, and despite its young age, its base notes were deep and revered with santal richness. Yes the underlying woody Santal DNA was still there but there was something more to it as the different notes interplay and unfolded itself.

Moving on, I was being introduced to many of the unreleased oils. Unfortunately I was not able to give a detail review of each of the oils as I did not have as much air time as I could like with every single one. It was definitely an interesting experience when every part of your arms were swiped with oils that you were running out of space for the next one! Nonetheless, I will try to give my best impression of the oils that I had tried, despite my mediocre olfactory senses.

First was Oud Ahmad, distilled from 100% sinking grade Kelantan raw material in 2001 alongside with Oud Sultani. It had a deep red profile and I kept finding myself going back to it amongst all the oils on my arms. I found similarity in quality to Oud Sultani though definitely not as airy and floral as its sibling. I would say this was definitely my favorite and I actually preferred Oud Ahmad to Oud Sultani as personally I felt that Oud Sultani was rather soft for my liking.

Sultan Mustafa was a very interesting oil. I thought I could pick up a Cambodi scent profile until Ensar told me it was cooked from a hybrid of Brunei and New Guinea woods. Not sure if it was because of the distillation method or the synergistic fusion between the 2 different types of material, I did not think I could pick out any New Guinea scents. I did not have experience with Brunei oil though, so no comment on this part.

Next I was treated to a couple of Merauke oils. Although I am not a big fan of Merauke oils but Maroke Kinam was definitely a pristine oil with the unmistakable Merauke DNA, but without the dampness or any petroleum smell. Maroke Asgon on the other hand was an unusual oil for a Merauke ,with opening floral and fruity top notes. Personally i prefer Maroke Asgon and it certainly helps when it's price is about 1/3 of Maroke Kinam! Do keep a look out for both oils if you are a Merauke fan.

Next was Sumatra Beccariana. It opened up with a coumarin note and share a similar profile to Unnu Aceh and Unnu Izzu. I was tempted to get this if not for the fact that I had already gotten both the Unnu oils! As I mentioned to Ensar how similar this oil was to the Unnu oils, he replied that similarity in scent profile was due to distillation technique whereas the difference was due to raw material used. Interestingly I had always thought every distillation is unique and more or less cannot be replicated.

There are other oils as well such as Sultan Abdül Hamit. It reminds me of tropical sunshine with a tinge of pineapple sweetness. Unfortunately I only had a fleeting impression of this oil and could not say more about it.

Aside from the oils appreciation, we also went into discussion on various topics such as distillation methods and its development. If you recall, I had paid a visit to Taha a few months back and learned quite a fair bit on the various distillation methods that he used. Though it was only a short discussion with Ensar, I felt that both of their distillation philosophies could not have been more different. Of course there is absolutely no right or wrong to distillation, but only what is the most appropriate method to be used for each particular batch of material as determined by the experience of the distiller. I can only count myself lucky to able to talk to two artisan distillers who are willing to share their belief.

I am always curious whether does the wood fragrance at room temperature is any indication of the wood's quality. Apparently not, according to Ensar. Resin is odorless and as such is suitable for heating to release the fragrant aroma and scents. On the other hand, oil is best suited for distillation as we all know by now that resin is almost impossible to be distilled unless you have some special methods to 'crack it open'. Oil rich wood will have a nice fragrance at room temperature but given enough time and air exposure, the smell will eventually disappear. I guess a heat test is still the best method to determine the wood quality.

Another eye opening and learning session for me! I always feel it is a great experience to talk to distiller so as to see things from his perspective. Hope to have more of such sessions in the future!

PS: By the way, I am just sharing my experience as per my Taha's visit. I do not in any way receive any commercial benefits (other than the opportunity to try unreleased oils) and are not endorsing any of the oils that I had reviewed in this post.
 

Taha

Well-Known Member
#5
I was talking to Ensar earlier, and we thought it might be a good idea to do a short (or maybe not so short!) oud chit-chat video at my place.
I thought some more, and got another idea: Ensar, Adam, and I, all together, and then do a live streaming video session where viewers can ask questions, etc. I bet it would be fun... attendees could ask questions, and hear different points of view.

We're all always traveling though, so it would be a bit tricky scheduling a time which would suit everyone. Oh, and Adam and Ensar would have to be game too, I haven't run this idea by them yet.
 

bhanny

Well-Known Member
#6
Hey Taha. That would amazing for us. I'd definitely tune in. Maybe there could be a few set topics to start, decided on in advance? Maybe open the forum up for questions for a period in advance. Anyway you guys do it, if you do it, it would be awesome.
 

Shabby

Well-Known Member
#8
London Oudfest with Ensar (October 2016)

Greetings of peace to all.

I thought it would be of general interest for me to report back with my impressions from London Oudfest, with the encouragement of Ensar. It has been just over a week since the event now so the lessons I learned have had a chance to marinate.

Firstly, just a brief note about my background so as to make clear my inexperience - I am only a few months into my oud journey, and also a young man. So far I have enjoyed every step of it and I am hopeful that it can be a journey of many years, God willing. I also have oils from most of the vendors who are usually mentioned within these circles, mostly from Ensar and Imperial Oud, but also Al Shareef Oudh, Feel-Oud and AgarAura.

Mainly I attended Oudfest with the aim of learning a little more about the art of oud appreciation as well as the purchase of an oil. I ended up getting a very extensive education, not to mention having conversations about topics outside of oud which were also of great value. On the first day, I met both Ensar and Thomas Kruger at a hotel in London, and I was asked about which aspects of oud I appreciated and what I would like to know in general. Ensar was very generous in giving me swipes of his finest oils, including the Cambodian oil from 1976, many of the Sultan series and several of the aged wild and organic oils, including Hainan 2005 and Jing Shen Lu. Throughout the session, Ensar would offer certain suggestions about the character of the oils and predominant notes in the scent profile - this was to help direct my appreciation, and it certainly had that effect. One of the consequences is that now I feel a lot more confident in swiping and smelling, having seen how it was done by Ensar himself. As for the oils, the '76 oil was supremely suave, Oud Ahmad was very potent and musky as described, Sultan Sufyan reminded me in its effect of OR1985 (although its scent profile was rather different and very beautiful indeed - perhaps my favourite of the Sultan Series oils that I smelled). Hainan 2005 was one of my favourites: very raw, ringing and attractive. Jing Shen Lu was truly superb as well, and I actually would put it very high up the list.

Many of the questions I wanted to ask were quite esoteric in scope, seeing that my primary motive for using oud is as a spiritual aid and remembrance of the Higher Reality. In this respect, I was provided with a very profound meditation on the reason for the effect for oud: Ensar pointed out that oud is produced out of an existential threat - one which by definition puts the tree in contact with some aspect of another reality, which we might call the afterlife. This is as opposed to most smells which are produced out of a desire to reproduce - florals, musk and so on. Forgive me if that is not very articulate...perhaps Ensar can expand on it. Anyway, this thought has stayed with me and impressed many of the people I have relayed it to. Certainly the effect of the oils, which is of a transcendent nature (as opposed to sensual), seems to confirm this hypothesis in at least one way.

At the end of the session, having purchased a bottle of the incomparably primordial Assam Organic, I mentioned a certain oil which I had and asked for his thoughts on oils of that region in general. He agreed for me to bring it along with any other oils which I found interesting the next day, so that I could hear his views on them. So began day 2...

The next day I met them at 11.30am, this time walking in to some beautiful wood being gently heated on an electric burner. I brought several oils with me from various vendors (Ensar had told me to feel free to bring in anything I found interesting).

What followed was an extended deconstruction of the various oils as well as a ranking of their quality. Some of the oils I thought of very highly he put near the bottom, and some near the top. It seems to me that he was ranking the oils with a mind partly to the quality of materials and partly to the quality of artisanal distillation. One thing which he noted was that some of the oils lacked body. A point which I confirmed when I went back home and did some extensive smelling of my own. This quality of body, or roundedness does mark some of the Ensar oils in quite distinctive way. The lack thereof is sometimes a deliberate effort on the part of distillers, and I believe it has its own merits, however I have a personal preference for the more rounded fragrances. When I compared Assam Organic to one of the other Hindis which I had taken to Ensar, it was immediately obvious to me that Assam Organic was much more impressive in that regard (this may have had something to do with the greater maturity of Ensar's oil). I also feel that the oils which he marked as superior had more development in a nonlinear way.

Also worthy of note was the fact that both of them often questioned the origin of the wood when I had mentioned what the distillers had mentioned - they evinced their questions by contrasting the various oils which I had brought with their own oils from those same regions. This was highly informative as well, as I was able to compare and contrast the scent profiles. Being no expert myself, I simply listened and took note. Even so, my instinct is to side with what the distillers have mentioned, mainly on the principle of 'benefit of the doubt'.

At the end of this highly informative session, we had a long discussion about subjects outside of oud. I felt immensely grateful to Thomas and Ensar for having the patience and generosity to sit with me for that as well, since we discussed it right up to the moment when their next client was due at 1pm, despite my not having an appointment and the whole session being a favour on their part.

Now, so many days later, I feel much more confident in my evaluation of oils, much happier taking bigger swipes and deeper breaths, and so much more appreciative of the oils themselves. Assam Organic is truly what I love in oud: primordiality, awe, transcendence and silence of mind are the effects of its application. I would highly recommend Oudfest for whoever has the chance, it enhances the oud experience at many different levels.

My deepest gratitude goes to Ensar and Thomas for their time. They were also kind enough to give me two different woods as a parting gift which I have been burning today. My lasting impression from Oudfest was of a collection of sublime oils, and two very generous brothers. I felt honoured from start to finish.
 
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kesiro

Well-Known Member
#9
Hello Shabby! Thanks for writing that up. I will have to make a mission of attending one of these Oudfests at some point. Will be difficult coming from California, but it sounds like an incredible experience.
 
#10
Thanks for that in depth post! I would love to make it to OudFest in the future. OudFest Chicago 2017! Come on Ensar!

Anyways, I also drew a similarity between OR85 and Sultan Sufyan. It is an excellent oil. His Sultan series is incredible.
 

Shabby

Well-Known Member
#11
Thank you folks it was a pleasure to write. I'm glad you made that comparison also sg1011. The effect of OR85 for me is a vast cavernous space, with a hint of jungle moisture and the awareness of green life. For Sultan Sufyan I felt that I was at the same scene, only my eyes were directed upwards towards the night sky, so that blue took a slight predominance over green.
 

kesiro

Well-Known Member
#12
Thank you folks it was a pleasure to write. I'm glad you made that comparison also sg1011. The effect of OR85 for me is a vast cavernous space, with a hint of jungle moisture and the awareness of green life. For Sultan Sufyan I felt that I was at the same scene, only my eyes were directed upwards towards the night sky, so that blue took a slight predominance over green.
Very interesting. I own Sultan Sulfyan but my OR85 is still in route. I am looking forward to comparing these two!
 

bhanny

Well-Known Member
#13
Thank you folks it was a pleasure to write. I'm glad you made that comparison also sg1011. The effect of OR85 for me is a vast cavernous space, with a hint of jungle moisture and the awareness of green life. For Sultan Sufyan I felt that I was at the same scene, only my eyes were directed upwards towards the night sky, so that blue took a slight predominance over green.
First off, awesome writing Shabby, thanks for sharing your experience. I, along with these others, would love to meet Ensar (and Thomas) personally one day. I have learned so much through him and his oils already, meeting him would be fantastic.

Second, though I only had a tiny drop or two to sample Sultan Sufyan, great comparison and scene setting between it and OR85. Great writing.
 

Shabby

Well-Known Member
#14
Thank you for your kind words bhanny. I am sure you would make the most of such an opportunity and I hope you get the chance to do so.
 

Ensar Oud

Well-Known Member
#15
Here's an upfront from afar: The biggest challenge a true artisan faces is longevity, apart of course from capturing the most unearthly aroma: what use is it if the aroma lasts only 10 minutes?

I think I have just made a major breakthrough in getting a scent to stick for hours and hours without waning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#17
Ensar pointed out that oud is produced out of an existential threat - one which by definition puts the tree in contact with some aspect of another reality, which we might call the afterlife. This is as opposed to most smells which are produced out of a desire to reproduce - florals, musk and so on. Forgive me if that is not very articulate...perhaps Ensar can expand on it.
Wow, I had never thought of oud like that before, very interesting indeed and I completely agree.
 

Ensar Oud

Well-Known Member
#18
Awesome Ensar!! Care to edumacate this oud grasshopper?
Well I myself am trying to figure out exactly what's happening, but I'm basically losing it.... I thought it was an ingenious temperature / volume inside the pot combo, but I am now convinced it HAS to be a lot more than that. This oil is literally haunting me.... When I'm not wearing it, I smell it just the same as when I'm wearing it. It's permeated my olfactory hard disk, and I get phantom whiffs of it throughout the day accompanied by the uncontrollable crave to have it on me ALL the time.... So I guess a genuine infatuation with the profile would have to be a mandatory starting point. As for the trick to bridgeing the top notes so they permeate the heart and base notes; all I can say is we did this backwards: we took the BASE notes, and pulled them up to the heart notes – and yanked them even higher all the way to the top notes. At least that's a way of looking at it, as there's no way on earth an oil's top notes last for 24 hours! o_O
 
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Ensar Oud

Well-Known Member
#19
Sounds amazing. Does the viscosity of the oil play into how long a oil will last or your new findings? Also does your new findings also effect the projection of the oil at the same time?
The viscosity does play a role much of the time, but this particular oil is quite thin; so, not this time! To answer your second question; indeed! The projection on this is off the charts. It creates an aura around me that I just can't be without.

These are all studies I'm doing that will influence upcoming releases; so please don't ask too much, or it'll spoil all the fun of what you're about to experience! :cool:
 

bhanny

Well-Known Member
#20
Well I myself am trying to figure out exactly what's happening, but I'm basically losing it.... I thought it was an ingenious temperature / volume inside the pot combo, but I am now convinced it HAS to be a lot more than that. This oil is literally haunting me.... When I'm not wearing it, I smell it just the same as when I'm wearing it. It's permeated my olfactory hard disk, and I get phantom whiffs of it throughout the day accompanied by the uncontrollable crave to have it on me ALL the time.... So I guess a genuine infatuation with the profile would have to be a mandatory starting point. As for the trick to bridgeing the top notes so they permeate the heart and base notes; all I can say is we did this backwards: we took the BASE notes, and pulled them up to the heart notes – and yanked them even higher all the way to the top notes. At least that's a metaphoric way of looking at it I guess, as there's no way on earth an oil's top notes last for 24 hours! o_O
Well. I'm infatuated with most of your oils, so that's an easy one for me. This is fascinating!