SOTD
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EnsarOud Xen Ji,
Cultivated Thai by wood, wild Cambodi by scent and performance from top to bottom.
The incense-grade conditioned pot just enguled any attempt of the cultivated wood to show its ugliness.
Just brilliant hat off to Ensar who made cultivation smell wild before it was cool...
Cultivated Thai by wood, wild Cambodi by scent and performance from top to bottom.
The incense-grade conditioned pot just enguled any attempt of the cultivated wood to show its ugliness.
Just brilliant hat off to Ensar who made cultivation smell wild before it was cool...
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Amazing. I love introducing Ouds to my friends and family. Those who get turned off by the smell at first come back later to get a swipe or half. Haha. Oud is a wonderful thing. But when I bake a chip it's on a totally different level. It's extremely to come across a piece, even the tiniest bit of which can scent up a large room. I am sure those who have those stocked up in their vaults and trunks are the luckiest people around. An Oil no matter how beautiful smelling will never come close. I don't think these guys will put such beautiful sinking pieces into pots to make oils. It's just mixed material that goes into pot. The Oleo part lol. And I have always seen strangers enjoy the smell of heated Oud as opposed to Oils.
P
Perhaps you don't even realize it Nikhil, but your one single post is super packed with many important yet inter-related issues.
It ties into this:
and this:
and this:
...and also a chip tip chip I smuggled into a package to Rasoul, and am dying to hear about. *cough*nudge*jab*
Patience dear Watson. Waiting for the right opportunity and also fully clear nose. Been a bit stuffy with a mild cold.
Perhaps you don't even realize it Nikhil, but your one single post is super packed with many important yet inter-related issues.
It ties into this:
and this:
and this:
...and also a chip tip chip I smuggled into a package to Rasoul, and am dying to hear about. *cough*nudge*jab*
Flux de Fleur by Adam. Sparkling. Marvellous. Glorious. Thank god this world has people like you brother. You are a saving grace for the embarrassing world of perfumery. The true Bruce Lee among many Steven Seagals. Masters of Bullshito. You have brought perfumes to the level of Artisanal Oud. Bravo.
Your question is best answered by perfumers and distillers but I share what I have come to learn
I have to say while I pick out more differences in the wood (each piece has to be studied at varying temperatures and with tremendous patience) I agree that differences are more evident and amplified in oils. But going back to wood there are many very unique origins and material that carry an exclusively unique note. I will never mistaken the filipina wood from taha with another origin. Nha Trang old heartwood to anything else. Koh Kong. Etc.
why is there more ease of differentiation in oil than wood? I see multiple reasons with main reason below (in my humble opinion)
The reason for oils smelling different than wood (minus few unique style distillation) is during the didtillstion bond are broken new ones formed. Scents get created that never existed in the wood by itself. This plus the ion exchange of copper or steel introduced even more new notes. I prefer oil to wood but don’t want to be left without the latter, ever, bc in oil I find more complexity specially the vertical complexity experienced hours into wearing an oil. The drydown of do many oils are so radically different than the opening that sometimes I wonder if mistakenly remember what I applied in first place. Eg I get a much more malinau like finish to kinamantan compared to the opening which is much more PNG like eg port moresbey or even sultani 1990.
That’s why blending oils after rather than multi source wood mixed prior to distillation will yield majorly different results.
Separate but still relatable note: Also I think is because of all the new scent molecules created during distillation, that hydro distillation is pretty much the only method for making oud compared to various extraction methods available and used with other base ingredients. Perhaps yields also have something to do with it but I am not confident in the answer. @Taha @Ensar @Adam ?
Re your last point I am not sure I follow the thinking of if one likes oleoresins why not fumigate? Is in my eyes the polar opposite. That gen 3 or senkoh like notes of what the distillers call oleo resin is complete opposite of charring or burning during fumigation. Unless you were talking about the actual waxy black resin heating scent.
My 2 cents
I have to say while I pick out more differences in the wood (each piece has to be studied at varying temperatures and with tremendous patience) I agree that differences are more evident and amplified in oils. But going back to wood there are many very unique origins and material that carry an exclusively unique note. I will never mistaken the filipina wood from taha with another origin. Nha Trang old heartwood to anything else. Koh Kong. Etc.
why is there more ease of differentiation in oil than wood? I see multiple reasons with main reason below (in my humble opinion)
The reason for oils smelling different than wood (minus few unique style distillation) is during the didtillstion bond are broken new ones formed. Scents get created that never existed in the wood by itself. This plus the ion exchange of copper or steel introduced even more new notes. I prefer oil to wood but don’t want to be left without the latter, ever, bc in oil I find more complexity specially the vertical complexity experienced hours into wearing an oil. The drydown of do many oils are so radically different than the opening that sometimes I wonder if mistakenly remember what I applied in first place. Eg I get a much more malinau like finish to kinamantan compared to the opening which is much more PNG like eg port moresbey or even sultani 1990.
That’s why blending oils after rather than multi source wood mixed prior to distillation will yield majorly different results.
Separate but still relatable note: Also I think is because of all the new scent molecules created during distillation, that hydro distillation is pretty much the only method for making oud compared to various extraction methods available and used with other base ingredients. Perhaps yields also have something to do with it but I am not confident in the answer. @Taha @Ensar @Adam ?
Re your last point I am not sure I follow the thinking of if one likes oleoresins why not fumigate? Is in my eyes the polar opposite. That gen 3 or senkoh like notes of what the distillers call oleo resin is complete opposite of charring or burning during fumigation. Unless you were talking about the actual waxy black resin heating scent.
My 2 cents
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Given the circumstances in which Oud is formed in different locations in fact different trees and even different sites in a single tree, it's rather convenient to assume tha one can sense so much from woods with such ease. Regarding Bonds if that were true the artists description of an oil distilled even 5 years ago would differ a lot later on. I am planning to study this proposed theory through GCMS of each and every Oil I have in my possession and also establish regional signatures in terms of molecules. Lets see how that turns out. Thank you for your thoughts brother Rasoul.
When I got up this morning, checked my mailbox.
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
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When I got up this morning, checked my mailbox.
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
Back everyone, apologies for my absense but things have gotten rather troublesome in goudaville so I needed to go away for a while and try to sort things out.
Today I got a heritage delivery from M. Arif.
It's been sitting in one of his warehouses for a year now, paid for. I always meant to add more on but as the devil at is at the door and my need great, I asked him to send it to me.
This morning I am wearing FO parfum de santal, long sold out of course but I will be reviewing it later today in the appropriate sandal review thread.
He very kindly sent samples (rubs hands with glee) so I will be filling up the Oud review thread as best I can over the following week.
Today I got a heritage delivery from M. Arif.
It's been sitting in one of his warehouses for a year now, paid for. I always meant to add more on but as the devil at is at the door and my need great, I asked him to send it to me.
This morning I am wearing FO parfum de santal, long sold out of course but I will be reviewing it later today in the appropriate sandal review thread.
He very kindly sent samples (rubs hands with glee) so I will be filling up the Oud review thread as best I can over the following week.
When I got up this morning, checked my mailbox.
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
2 packages!
Inside one, People’s Sultan, inside the other pkg. Sultan Mujeeb.
So I guess it’s Sultan Day today
Swiped PS on the left.....ahhhhhhhhhh
Swiped SM on the right.....ahhhhhhhhh
In the middle......my Mind Blown
Two very scrupulously distilled oils, tugging at my neurons. Forget the morning cup of Ethiopian I just drank, the oud eclipsed it. I kept soaring high for a while.
I LOVE OUD
People’s Sultan is seamless. The Trat and New Guinea marry so well to produce a genuine Trat Sultan.
And Sultan Mujeeb.......don’t even get me started with this bonafide Oriscent-Grade potion. It wasn’t juiced for over two months just to be a decent oud.
It satisfies my fragheadedness and rocks my world!
It’s like an excellent Taha-style study oil, with not just the x, y, and z axis, but an Omega Axis also. The omega axis is when you take excellent stock (in this case the New Guinea Incense Grade), then distill it to extract all possible desireable facets which comprise the full spectrum from Classical, Artisanal, and New Generational styles, while leaving out the undesirable facets. Can anyone ask for more than that?
Not to mention it has the Blue Green Ocean that I love
Well, I practically begged the seller to part with more, and got an additional .75g
Many congratulations Curt! First the “People’s Sultan” and secondly on the Mujeeb. Mujeeb is all what you said plus more. The incense grade wood which was used to make this Oud catapults this Oud to a very high caliber oil. The oceanic note is just perfect in this Oud. The silage, ahhh well you will have to just wear it and see.
There’s a lot more to Sultan Mujeeb.
So much to discover
But what takes the cake is the design/crafting of this oud. Ensar outdid himself, and he probably won’t want to go through the painstaking process again.
What you get, is an oud that is juiced like no other single region oil, and will have no equal for what it is.
It is an olfactory wonder and precious too.
I don’t want to sound like I’m going overboard with this oil, but my nose is telling me to write this, not my enthusiasm. Vive le Fragheads
I'd say the answer to your first question is in the first sentence of your next quote. IMO an oil is the expression and concentration of notes from chip to chip, wood formed in the trunk, branch and different parts of a tree, perhaps different trees in the same jungle, sometimes different species, etc. Master Kyarazen has a great article on the subject @ https://www.kyarazen.com/oud-oil-really-complex-raw-wood/#
About fumigating, lets look at perfume. Perfume essentially means through smoke or by smoke. Historically, using agarwood as incense precedes using it in oil form; from the Arabic habits of fumigating to the Japanese Kodo ceremony. I think a lot of us here do fumigate/heat, but I believe that in the west, most know of agarwood oils more from the explosion of using 'agarwood' as an ingredient in modern perfumery. I'd say that way less know about using agarwood to fumigate and exponentially less know about gently heating agarwood for listening, comparing scents and Rikkoku Gomi. My own appreciation of agarwood has gone from easy lighting charcoal, to Japanese charcoal with less of its own scent, to various electric heaters, and finally to the most ingenious device that seeks to mimic low temperatures and listening to find subtleties, the Kyarazen Subitism and a variable power supply. When I was using charcoal, as you mentioned, most woods smelled alike. Once I got the subitism and exercised patience I began to be able to note differences in wood regions. However, that is with batches I have, it's very possible that I could get another batch of wood from a region that I have, that may have commonalities yet be very different; in much the same way that not every Assam, Manipur or Sri Lanka agarwood oil smells the same. I'm going to go gently heat some sinking Sri Lankan wood @kooolaid79 gave me
I think when they are discussing bonds broken and formed, that they're talking about during distillation, not something that happens after distillation.
About fumigating, lets look at perfume. Perfume essentially means through smoke or by smoke. Historically, using agarwood as incense precedes using it in oil form; from the Arabic habits of fumigating to the Japanese Kodo ceremony. I think a lot of us here do fumigate/heat, but I believe that in the west, most know of agarwood oils more from the explosion of using 'agarwood' as an ingredient in modern perfumery. I'd say that way less know about using agarwood to fumigate and exponentially less know about gently heating agarwood for listening, comparing scents and Rikkoku Gomi. My own appreciation of agarwood has gone from easy lighting charcoal, to Japanese charcoal with less of its own scent, to various electric heaters, and finally to the most ingenious device that seeks to mimic low temperatures and listening to find subtleties, the Kyarazen Subitism and a variable power supply. When I was using charcoal, as you mentioned, most woods smelled alike. Once I got the subitism and exercised patience I began to be able to note differences in wood regions. However, that is with batches I have, it's very possible that I could get another batch of wood from a region that I have, that may have commonalities yet be very different; in much the same way that not every Assam, Manipur or Sri Lanka agarwood oil smells the same. I'm going to go gently heat some sinking Sri Lankan wood @kooolaid79 gave me
I think when they are discussing bonds broken and formed, that they're talking about during distillation, not something that happens after distillation.
AA Plai Cheu
Strong opening of Crassna Tutti Frutti. Not too far from the likes of L Essentiel Cambodgien or Saumanasa.
There so much aroma exploding, that the Crassna can’t hold back it’s fruitiness, forcing it to smell like other bubblegum ouds. But!!!.....upon closer listening, it is evident that the richness of scent is superior to it’s clones, with more depth and zero barn.
Moving on.....the opening slides a long slope downward to the heart, where the top fades to reveal a different profile. The ensuing aroma is pure cambodi fruit nestled in oleroresinousnessity
Now.....all one has to do is kick-back and enjoy
Strong opening of Crassna Tutti Frutti. Not too far from the likes of L Essentiel Cambodgien or Saumanasa.
There so much aroma exploding
, that the Crassna can’t hold back it’s fruitiness, forcing it to smell like other bubblegum ouds. But!!!.....upon closer listening, it is evident that the richness of scent is superior to it’s clones, with more depth and zero barn.Moving on.....the opening slides a long slope downward to the heart, where the top fades to reveal a different profile. The ensuing aroma is pure cambodi fruit nestled in oleroresinousnessity
Now.....all one has to do is kick-back and enjoy